So-Called Dollar Discussions
SC Interstate/West Indian Expo - HK-292 Variety?
Quote from bill on February 9, 2013, 1:10 pmIt is HK 294. It is certainly collectible, but it is difficult to tell if the long straight marks are toning or actual scratches. I think that makes the biggest difference in its value since it otherwise looks nice.
It is HK 294. It is certainly collectible, but it is difficult to tell if the long straight marks are toning or actual scratches. I think that makes the biggest difference in its value since it otherwise looks nice.
Quote from DeanO on February 10, 2013, 8:31 amThe diaganal marks are minor scratches. The photo definetley makes them look worse than when you look at it with the naked eye. When it comes to cleaning without destroying the value, what methods do professionals use to clean it? Ultrasonic? DeanO
The diaganal marks are minor scratches. The photo definetley makes them look worse than when you look at it with the naked eye. When it comes to cleaning without destroying the value, what methods do professionals use to clean it? Ultrasonic? DeanO
Quote from bill on February 10, 2013, 2:00 pmI would leave it alone. The scratches will keep it from from receiving a good price as it is. The black spots are likely tarnish spots that have already disrupted the brass finish. Removing them means removing portions of the surface metal which will further decrease the medal's value. Maybe they are a dirt deposit on the surface and have not damaged the brass, but I cannot tell that from the photographs alone. I really suspect they are actual tarnish spots. That means ultrasonic cleaning won't remove them since they are not dirt. Anything else you do risks creating hairlines on the surface which will make it worse. If you want to sell it, leave it as it is and let the new owner decide if they want to try to clean it further. I strongly suspect that cleaning it will decrease its value.
I would leave it alone. The scratches will keep it from from receiving a good price as it is. The black spots are likely tarnish spots that have already disrupted the brass finish. Removing them means removing portions of the surface metal which will further decrease the medal's value. Maybe they are a dirt deposit on the surface and have not damaged the brass, but I cannot tell that from the photographs alone. I really suspect they are actual tarnish spots. That means ultrasonic cleaning won't remove them since they are not dirt. Anything else you do risks creating hairlines on the surface which will make it worse. If you want to sell it, leave it as it is and let the new owner decide if they want to try to clean it further. I strongly suspect that cleaning it will decrease its value.
Quote from DeanO on February 11, 2013, 10:36 amThanks for your input Bill. If I were to put this on E-Bay, what would you suggest I put in as a reserve?
Thanks for your input Bill. If I were to put this on E-Bay, what would you suggest I put in as a reserve?
Quote from bill on February 11, 2013, 2:22 pmThanks for your input Bill. If I were to put this on E-Bay, what would you suggest I put in as a reserve?
I really can't answer that question since it depends on what it is worth to you. I don't list pieces with reserves myself. Maybe it helps to get bidders working each other up, but generally I feel like I am bidding against the person auctioning the piece. I would pick a price that I was unwilling to go below and open it at that price. If you get no bidders, it was too high or no one was interested. If it is below value and two or more collectors are interested, it will go for a fair price as collectors bid against one another. I recently saw an item listed for a .99 opening bid with no reserve, a piece I really wanted. (It was a token, not a so-called dollar.) I figured it was worth around $200 and I really wanted it. I placed a bid of $500 to be sure I was covered since it was a rare token. Ten minutes before the auction was to close, I was still high bidder at $75. I felt good and was certain I would get it in the $200 range. In the last few seconds, a bid was placed that exceeded my $500 bid. I don't know what amount they actually bid, but the had no way of knowing my top number was $500 since the my bid was still sitting at $75 at the time. The point is, if two people want it, you will get a good value for it without a reserve in place. To protect yourself against a lack of interest, start with the minimum you are willing to take.
Thanks for your input Bill. If I were to put this on E-Bay, what would you suggest I put in as a reserve?
I really can't answer that question since it depends on what it is worth to you. I don't list pieces with reserves myself. Maybe it helps to get bidders working each other up, but generally I feel like I am bidding against the person auctioning the piece. I would pick a price that I was unwilling to go below and open it at that price. If you get no bidders, it was too high or no one was interested. If it is below value and two or more collectors are interested, it will go for a fair price as collectors bid against one another. I recently saw an item listed for a .99 opening bid with no reserve, a piece I really wanted. (It was a token, not a so-called dollar.) I figured it was worth around $200 and I really wanted it. I placed a bid of $500 to be sure I was covered since it was a rare token. Ten minutes before the auction was to close, I was still high bidder at $75. I felt good and was certain I would get it in the $200 range. In the last few seconds, a bid was placed that exceeded my $500 bid. I don't know what amount they actually bid, but the had no way of knowing my top number was $500 since the my bid was still sitting at $75 at the time. The point is, if two people want it, you will get a good value for it without a reserve in place. To protect yourself against a lack of interest, start with the minimum you are willing to take.
Quote from DeanO on February 11, 2013, 3:50 pmGreat advice Bill! I will take it into consideration. When i get some spare time, I may just list it and see what happens. i am no collector, just happened upon it and started looking into what it was. Thnaks again. DeanO
Great advice Bill! I will take it into consideration. When i get some spare time, I may just list it and see what happens. i am no collector, just happened upon it and started looking into what it was. Thnaks again. DeanO
Quote from Pioneer on December 23, 2013, 7:01 pmThought i'd post some photos from the 292 to 294 series?. I obtained the HK-293A at the 2013 National Token Show in Reno, NV...
Thought i'd post some photos from the 292 to 294 series?. I obtained the HK-293A at the 2013 National Token Show in Reno, NV...
Quote from BRUCE THOMAS on February 2, 2015, 9:59 amRjesinger, can you tell me what the origin is of the "Mystery solved" picture showing the two unlisted versions of HK-292 please? edited by THOMAS655 on 2/2/2015
Rjesinger, can you tell me what the origin is of the "Mystery solved" picture showing the two unlisted versions of HK-292 please? edited by THOMAS655 on 2/2/2015
Quote from billycgribble on February 2, 2015, 3:55 pmMystery solved... thank you!
The problem is both of the silver and silver plate pieces weigh exactly the same. The silver plated piece is reingraved on the dates, weak spots and the words Fort Sumter on the reverse.
Mystery solved... thank you!
The problem is both of the silver and silver plate pieces weigh exactly the same. The silver plated piece is reingraved on the dates, weak spots and the words Fort Sumter on the reverse.
Quote from bill on February 4, 2015, 10:58 amMystery solved... thank you!
The problem is both of the silver and silver plate pieces weigh exactly the same. The silver plated piece is reingraved on the dates, weak spots and the words Fort Sumter on the reverse.
That is not possible unless the silver piece is thinner or smaller in diameter. Silver is a denser, heavier metal than copper and it's alloys. All things being equal, silver must be heavier than silver plate. I had the chance to weigh silver and silver-plated examples of several so-called dollars last week in Long Beach. Silver examples were uniformly around 20 percent heavier. We took one piece with no copper showing through the silver and had it tested with a variable power XRF gun (read surface and below surface, important for heavily plated pieces). The weight of the plated piece was the same as the unplated. Sure enough, it was copper below the heavy plating. If the weights are same, then they must be the same, plated or silver. If they weigh the same as the copper or bronze medal, then they must be plated (all else being equal, diameter and thickness). edited by bill on 2/4/2015
Mystery solved... thank you!
The problem is both of the silver and silver plate pieces weigh exactly the same. The silver plated piece is reingraved on the dates, weak spots and the words Fort Sumter on the reverse.
That is not possible unless the silver piece is thinner or smaller in diameter. Silver is a denser, heavier metal than copper and it's alloys. All things being equal, silver must be heavier than silver plate. I had the chance to weigh silver and silver-plated examples of several so-called dollars last week in Long Beach. Silver examples were uniformly around 20 percent heavier. We took one piece with no copper showing through the silver and had it tested with a variable power XRF gun (read surface and below surface, important for heavily plated pieces). The weight of the plated piece was the same as the unplated. Sure enough, it was copper below the heavy plating. If the weights are same, then they must be the same, plated or silver. If they weigh the same as the copper or bronze medal, then they must be plated (all else being equal, diameter and thickness). edited by bill on 2/4/2015